There are so many myths and so much just plain bullshit in the gun world and it simply refuses to go away. So in the interest of disposing of some of it, I'm going to address some of those myths and some of that BS here. There is surely enough to make this a regular series, to say nothing of the brand-specific BS.
I'll start the list with my personal favorite.
"Restoration":
Everybody
with a buffing wheel, a Dremel tool and a Brownell's catalog thinks they do it. The ones
that ACTUALLY do it own neither a buffing wheel nor a Dremel tool and I, personally, rarely (almost never) order anything from Brownell's.
Possibly the most misused word in all of the gun world. If you restore
Rugers, the above does not apply.
"Mint Condition":
The second and third most misused words in the gun world. I prefer to use the dictionary definition versus the gun dealer's/seller's definition, which apparently allows for repairs, refinishing and other assorted deviations from the actual meaning of the phrase.
"As Far As I Know...":
The gun dealer's/seller's "get out of jail free" phrase. Typically used thusly: "As far as I know, those 18-inch barrels are original, probably rare", or, "As far as I know, it's a real A1 Parker", or the ever popular "As far as I know, it's all original". If you hear this phrase, beware. What it really means (usually) is "I do know but I'd rather make the sale".
"I Had a Local Shop/Guy Do It":
This is a common answer to the question: "Who the #$%^&* did this?!!"
"Hand Rubbed Finish":
This DOES NOT mean slathering Tru-Oil (or whatever) on a stock with your hand like a preschooler fingerpainting. "Hand rubbed" means the same thing in wood finishing as it means when referring to a paint job on a car. It means that each coat and the final coat is polished, by hand and using blocks and appropriate abrasives, in order to level the finish between coats and impart the chosen level of gloss on the final coat. A hand rubbed finish can be brushed on, sprayed on, mopped on, dipped, it doesn't really matter. It can be oil, lacquer, varnish, paint, shellac, etc. What matters is what is done between applications and after the final application.
"Seven Pin Sidelock":
This utterly meaningless term is a favorite of advert copy writers for Turkish gun companies and self-styled "experts" on all things doublegun. The number of exposed pins in a sidelock gun's lockplate have absolutely no correlation to the quality of the gun, period. Here is a short list of some of the best guns made in the world and the number of visible pins in their locks.
- Fabbri Over/Under, either 0 or 6
- Boss Over/Under, 6
- Fratelli Rizzini Over/Under, 1
- Fratelli Rizzini R1 SLE, 0-4
- Purdey Over/Under, 8
- Purdey Beesley SLE, 8
Think your Turkish side by side is a "best" because it has "seven pin" locks? It's not. The number of pins has only to do with the design of the lockwork, nothing more.
"High" and "Low" Brass Shells:
The height of the brass base of a shotshell has zero correlation to the chamber pressure, at all, period.
Shotshell pressure depends upon variables like hull internal volume and powder burn rate, not the height of the exposed brass. Remember Active shotshells? They had NO brass.
"Light Target Loads":
Most big-box target loads are only light in the recoil department. Many of them generate pressures of 11-12 KPSI. Remember, chamber pressure and recoil have no correlation. The next time you think, "It's OK, I'll just use light target loads", maybe reconsider and use shells for which your gun is proofed.
Measuring Pull Length:
Common "wisdom" has the shooter put the butt into the crook of their arm (at the elbow) and determine their "proper" pull length by noting where their trigger-finger lands. This is total nonsense, unless you actually shoot the gun that way. What you want is about an inch to an inch and a half between your thumb knuckle and the tip of your nose when the gun is properly mounted. Better to err on the long side as too short will make you lift your head. And no, a fourteen and a half inch pull length is not "really long" unless you're a member of the Lollipop Guild or you have arms like T-Rex.
"Relaxing Springs":
A spring's lifespan is measured in the number of cycles it will perform and the number of cycles is determined by its design, the choice and quality of the material used and the quality of its manufacture. It's funny that everybody worries about "relaxing" the mainsprings for storage but no one gives a thought to the ejector mainsprings, which are always compressed unless the ejectors are tripped. In actual use, a spring is never really "relaxed" since they are always installed with a considerable amount of preload. So in reality, if you're the type to always drop the hammers for storage, you're actually "using up" the finite number of cycles that make up the spring's lifespan. Don't worry about the springs and relax yourself.
"Water Table":
I have no idea where this idiotic term came from. They're either action flats or frame flats, the water table is under your house, where your well is drilled into. Nobody has a problem calling the barrel flats by their proper and sensible name. Maybe we should start calling them the "lawn", since they are above the "water table".
"Rabbit Ears":
They're hammers. Don't sound like an illiterate moonshiner.
"Sidekicks":
This is one that makes my ears bleed. Unless your parents are brother and sister, please don't refer to sidelocks as "sidekicks".
"Scattergun":
Oh Jeez.
Next time, maybe some brand-specific mythology.
Wednesday, July 25, 2018
Friday, July 6, 2018
Joseph Harkom & Son 20 Bore Hammergun
This Harkom 20 bore hammergun was tarted-up and "repaired" for resale by a party that won't be named but, I will detail the complete lack of anything resembling correct workmanship used in the repair.
To start, not all steels are satisfactorily weldable, this includes the oil-hardening varieties. This fact did not stand in the way of the "gunsmith" attempting to repair the left tumbler precisely by that method. The welded tumbler was discovered when the left lock was disassembled to remove the broken remains of the hammer screw, the head of which had fallen off. After examining the broken screw, two things became apparent. One was a noticeable amount of some sort of epoxy around the tumbler shank, the other was evidence of attempts at prior removal of the broken screw shank. These two items might lead one to believe that the screw head was simply epoxied in place. Not surprising when the workmanship of the other repairs became apparent.
The gun as it came in,
The horrible, bird-shit welded, warped, butter-soft and buffing wheeled "repair" of the tumbler, keep in mind that these are top-quality Stanton locks.
Let's take good, detailed look at the "craftsmanship" and note the utter lack of similarity to the original workmanship.
The new tumbler blanked from O1 on the lathe, from here on, it's pretty much hand work.
Almost finished,
Ready for heat-treating and final polishing, the full and half-cock bents are filed to final shape and will be stoned for smoothness after heat-treating, the recess for the swivel is cut and the flats that drive the hammer are filed up.
A little comparison,
The lock assembled,
The new hammer screw was made in the usual fashion. Here it's in my engraving vise...
...And finished
The finished job.
This is a perfect example of how anything less than best-quality workmanship in repairs can have a detrimental effect on your investment in a fine double. Yes, doing it the right way takes longer than the half-assed way, but the right way lasts longer and maintains the value of the gun precisely because the repair is indistinguishable from original.
To start, not all steels are satisfactorily weldable, this includes the oil-hardening varieties. This fact did not stand in the way of the "gunsmith" attempting to repair the left tumbler precisely by that method. The welded tumbler was discovered when the left lock was disassembled to remove the broken remains of the hammer screw, the head of which had fallen off. After examining the broken screw, two things became apparent. One was a noticeable amount of some sort of epoxy around the tumbler shank, the other was evidence of attempts at prior removal of the broken screw shank. These two items might lead one to believe that the screw head was simply epoxied in place. Not surprising when the workmanship of the other repairs became apparent.
The gun as it came in,
The horrible, bird-shit welded, warped, butter-soft and buffing wheeled "repair" of the tumbler, keep in mind that these are top-quality Stanton locks.
Let's take good, detailed look at the "craftsmanship" and note the utter lack of similarity to the original workmanship.
The new tumbler blanked from O1 on the lathe, from here on, it's pretty much hand work.
Almost finished,
Ready for heat-treating and final polishing, the full and half-cock bents are filed to final shape and will be stoned for smoothness after heat-treating, the recess for the swivel is cut and the flats that drive the hammer are filed up.
A little comparison,
The lock assembled,
The new hammer screw was made in the usual fashion. Here it's in my engraving vise...
...And finished
The finished job.
This is a perfect example of how anything less than best-quality workmanship in repairs can have a detrimental effect on your investment in a fine double. Yes, doing it the right way takes longer than the half-assed way, but the right way lasts longer and maintains the value of the gun precisely because the repair is indistinguishable from original.
Monday, June 11, 2018
Attention Auction Bidders
My proximity to the newly merged Morphy's / James D. Julia auction house allows me to offer pre-bid inspections of any firearms in upcoming auctions. The Pre-Bid Inspection/Evaluation is the same as the pre-purchase inspection/evaluation service that I've offered for years. With a Pre-Bid Inspection/Eval, you can bid with the confidence of knowing the exact condition of the arm at the time of inspection, its critical dimensions, condition (both mechanical and cosmetic) and any rework or repairs that may be needed or have been done in the past. While Julia's has always had a very good reputation as far as describing their lots, sometimes mistakes are made and let's face facts, the seller will usually "highlight the good points" of an item. As a neutral third party, I will describe the item fairly and truthfully, both good and bad so that you, the bidder will have no surprises in store. The cost for this service is modest at one hundred fifty dollars, think of it as cheap insurance.
Saturday, June 2, 2018
Beretta SO-5 Conversion
Here is a Beretta SO-5 Sporting Clays gun. The original stock was of typical Italian target gun contour, tightly curved pistol grip, deep toe line and generally "heavy" looking. The owner much preferred the look of the factory straight hand stock and forend without the unsightly schnabel end.
The factory metal finish was a bit tired and rough as well so that was also addressed during its stay.
The buttstock and forend in their original configuration
The first cut
The client also wanted a spurred Silver's recoil pad (in red).
The original pistol hand triggerguard strap was cut off and new material welded in place. The engraving on the new guard strap was designed to "mesh" more harmoniously with that of the rest of the gun. The original engraving looked a bit like an afterthought and the "SO5" looked a lot more like "SOS".
The new strap and screws look much better thanks to Geoffroy Gournet's engraving.
Here is the butt shaped, finish sanded and ready to start the point pattern checkering. Also note that the schnabel has been removed from the forend.
The finished job, much more aesthetically pleasing
The factory metal finish was a bit tired and rough as well so that was also addressed during its stay.
The buttstock and forend in their original configuration
The first cut
The client also wanted a spurred Silver's recoil pad (in red).
The original pistol hand triggerguard strap was cut off and new material welded in place. The engraving on the new guard strap was designed to "mesh" more harmoniously with that of the rest of the gun. The original engraving looked a bit like an afterthought and the "SO5" looked a lot more like "SOS".
The new strap and screws look much better thanks to Geoffroy Gournet's engraving.
Here is the butt shaped, finish sanded and ready to start the point pattern checkering. Also note that the schnabel has been removed from the forend.
The finished job, much more aesthetically pleasing
Friday, June 1, 2018
Rising Bite, Bar-in-Wood, Sidelock, Sidelever, 28 GA (#008)
Or, it will be in the near future. Another one of my own design, from scratch. Aside from the bar-wood action, the rising bite and the sidelever, it's going to be pretty conventional. A hammerless, breechloading homage to the percussion-era, when British guns reached their aesthetic zenith.
The barrels are 28 inches, it will sport a straight hand stock with Westley Richards-style grip safety, splinter forend (wedge retained, of course) and the target weight is five and a half pounds.
The rough tubes, raw on the left, rough filed on the right
The breeches are of dovetail lump construction.
Clamped for brazing, I know, black iron wire is "traditional"but for the task of brazing (and the temperatures involved) it simply doesn't compare to stainless worm-drive clamps.
The frame
The barrels and frame are jointed. The blocks soft-soldered to the barrels are temporary. They are machined to be parallel and square to the lumps and barrel flats. Their purpose is to facilitate clamping in the mill and bench vise.
The frame is machined for the striker bushings.
The start of the forend iron
Machining the extractor bed
The forend lug is made and silver brazed in place and the forend iron is rough-shaped.
The triggerplate is started.
The triggerplate and inboard portion of the sidelever.
The outboard portion of the sidelever blanked.
Making the swivel for the spring that will power the sidelever and bolts.
Making the triggerguard bow.
All of the parts of the bolting, sidelever and extractor mechanisms.
Jointed, bolts fitted and extractor mechanism fitted.
A little further along with the shape-up.
Triggers are made and hung. The safety mechanism is also made.
Time to make the lockwork...
First, the tumblers and stirrups
The bridles and mainsprings
Almost done, the sear springs remain to be made and installed. I didn't take any photos of the sears, screws etc., I was too busy filing.
Here's a video clip of the right lock.
Making the left lock
Both locks made, but not finished
I wanted something other than the typical "cocking indicators" on the exposed ends of the hammer pivots, so....
Now on to the triggerguard, that all-important piece that can either make or break the looks of a gun. After forming the bow and strap, they're TIG welded together and final shaping and fitting can be done. I wanted to do something different here but it had to be subtle. What I came up with looks simple, I assure you it was not simple to do. I'm pleased enough with the result that I've decided to forego the planned grip safety.
Here are a couple of shots of the gun assembled into the pattern wood (minus the lockwork guts). Once I make the forend wedge and escutcheons and the forend tip/finial, I can begin stocking it. All of the external screws are "work" screws. The final screws will be made during stocking. There is nothing in the photo to give the gun any scale, so the dimensions may help. The width at the fences is 1.75 inches, and the height from rib to triggerplate is 1.8 inches.
This is the blank that I had planned on using (though now I'm not sure) and a photo of the metalwork on it.
While some of the finish screws can't be made until the gun is stocked, the "metal-to-metal" screws can be made prior. These include the triggerplate screw and the lockplate screws.
The frame shaping is done, forend hardware is made and it's ready for stocking to its owner's dimensions.
The barrels are 28 inches, it will sport a straight hand stock with Westley Richards-style grip safety, splinter forend (wedge retained, of course) and the target weight is five and a half pounds.
The rough tubes, raw on the left, rough filed on the right
The breeches are of dovetail lump construction.
Clamped for brazing, I know, black iron wire is "traditional"but for the task of brazing (and the temperatures involved) it simply doesn't compare to stainless worm-drive clamps.
The frame
The barrels and frame are jointed. The blocks soft-soldered to the barrels are temporary. They are machined to be parallel and square to the lumps and barrel flats. Their purpose is to facilitate clamping in the mill and bench vise.
The frame is machined for the striker bushings.
The start of the forend iron
Machining the extractor bed
The forend lug is made and silver brazed in place and the forend iron is rough-shaped.
The triggerplate is started.
The triggerplate and inboard portion of the sidelever.
The outboard portion of the sidelever blanked.
Making the swivel for the spring that will power the sidelever and bolts.
Making the triggerguard bow.
All of the parts of the bolting, sidelever and extractor mechanisms.
Jointed, bolts fitted and extractor mechanism fitted.
Time for some hammer and chisel work! The left fence is roughed in.
Triggers are made and hung. The safety mechanism is also made.
Time to make the lockwork...
First, the tumblers and stirrups
The bridles and mainsprings
Almost done, the sear springs remain to be made and installed. I didn't take any photos of the sears, screws etc., I was too busy filing.
Here's a video clip of the right lock.
Making the left lock
Both locks made, but not finished
I wanted something other than the typical "cocking indicators" on the exposed ends of the hammer pivots, so....
Now on to the triggerguard, that all-important piece that can either make or break the looks of a gun. After forming the bow and strap, they're TIG welded together and final shaping and fitting can be done. I wanted to do something different here but it had to be subtle. What I came up with looks simple, I assure you it was not simple to do. I'm pleased enough with the result that I've decided to forego the planned grip safety.
Here are a couple of shots of the gun assembled into the pattern wood (minus the lockwork guts). Once I make the forend wedge and escutcheons and the forend tip/finial, I can begin stocking it. All of the external screws are "work" screws. The final screws will be made during stocking. There is nothing in the photo to give the gun any scale, so the dimensions may help. The width at the fences is 1.75 inches, and the height from rib to triggerplate is 1.8 inches.
This is the blank that I had planned on using (though now I'm not sure) and a photo of the metalwork on it.
While some of the finish screws can't be made until the gun is stocked, the "metal-to-metal" screws can be made prior. These include the triggerplate screw and the lockplate screws.
The frame shaping is done, forend hardware is made and it's ready for stocking to its owner's dimensions.
The more I looked at the stock blank that I'd originally intended to use, the less I liked it. After some looking, I found a blank that I liked. This will do nicely.
And, the internal finishing, all done by hand. You will find highly polished beveling (anglage) around the edges of the bridles, watchmaker style screwheads with flat heads and beveled edges, Cotes de Geneve (Geneva stripes) on the flats and matte graining on the sides, along with matted lockplate flats. It all must be done by hand in order to maintain the contours and flats of the parts because flexible buffing wheels would ruin the flats as well as the edges. The tumblers (hammers) and sears are gold plated. The finishes were inspired by one of my favorite watches (the Lange & Sohn Zeitwerk). Notably absent is any of what is incorrectly referred to in the gun world as jeweling or "engine turning", correctly called perlage (or "spotting"). I loathe this finish and, in my opinion, it only looks good on the bolt of a bolt action rifle. Too many makers employ this finish as a dazzling distraction from poor quality workmanship, which is effective because of its "busy" appearance. I prefer finishes that highlight the workmanship, rather than hide it or distract from it. Is any of this necessary? No, and that's the whole point.
There were some detail changes as the gun progressed. In keeping with the watchmaking-inspired lockwork finishes, I incorporated ruby jewel bearings for the pivots in the lockplates, as well as crystal cocking indicators (I like the idea of a "window" into the inner workings). The floral patterned screws were replaced with less "busy" looking (and, I think, more tasteful) watchmaker-style screws. The tapered, beveled and polished "trim pieces" around the lockplates and the recoil pad add a bit of distinctive, yet understated, automotive-inspired "pizazz". The recoil pad is covered in black kangaroo leather and the stock is, obviously, Turkish walnut. The forend retaining wedge is "headless" in the interest of symmetry, its internal retaining pin also acting as a stop pin, so there is no need for a large head on one side of the wedge. The name "badges" on the lockplates (another automotive influence) were cut from .020" nickel sheet on my pantograph.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)