Vintage Hensoldt-Wetzlar Repair

 Here's a vintage Hensoldt-Wetzlar 4x scope that presented with some very common issues (common to any vintage scope, not just this brand).  The image was not clear, the vertical post of the reticle was bent, the focus ring screw had been replaced at some point with one that is incorrect, it was generally filthy and, last but certainly not least, the elevation drum lock screw was broken off (which is apparently very common).

The cause of the unclear image was a delaminated ocular (eyepiece) lens.  These lenses are made in two parts (one concave and one convex) that are cemented together into what is known as an achromatic lens.  An achromatic lens is designed to bring two different light wavelengths into focus on the same plane and, as long as the glue that holds them together is in good condition, light passes through it as if it isn't there.  Once that glue deteriorates though, the light scatters, rather than passing through, causing a cloudy, smeared or otherwise distorted image.  The solution is to dissolve the existing glue, clean the lenses and relaminate them, which is what I did.  A likely reason for this not uncommon occurrence, is that these scopes are not sealed against the elements, allowing moisture infiltration into the scope (and the edges of the lenses).  When everything is in good order though, some of these scopes provide a surprisingly clear image.  Like any scope, it comes down to the quality of the glass.

Here, the failed lamination is apparent.

 The next issue is to correct the misaligned post, seen here.

 

The remains of the broken elevation lock screw...I think that this one was broken during an attempt to remove it, without realizing that it is retained by a screw on the opposite side.  It was twisted off right at the end of the retaining screw hole (the thinnest point)

 Making the new lock screw (the focus ring screw is made on the lathe as well)...

Everything corrected, cleaned and ready for lubing and reassembly...

The finished job...

Un-botching Another Parker Repro Single Trigger

 Yes, yet another Parker single trigger that must be un-fucked, thanks to the efforts of multiple so-called "doublegun/Parker specialists".  This design is so elegant in its simplicity (unlike the rest of a Parker) that it literally baffles me that there are those who call themselves "professionals" that clearly do not, even remotely, understand how it functions. 

 This particular gun had initially suffered from the doubling issue that is so common to the Repros.  This problem is NOT an inherent fault in the design.  It is caused by a single part, more specifically, it is caused by the method of the part's manufacture.  

Had the gun come here first, the repair would have been less than 300 dollars but, because of the ham-fisted half-assery and guesswork that had been visited upon it, the cost was significantly higher.  Price shopping some things (like paper towels, or maybe gunsmithing) is really just false economy.

In this particular case, the sear noses had been shortened to the point that the hammers' fall was shortened by almost half of their travel, the single trigger's interceptor piece had been filed into uselessness and, naturally, at least one screw was destroyed (luckily, only one).

Since welding these parts is verboten (unless you're a hack that thinks all steels are weldable), making new parts was the only option, so let's get to it.

The sears and interceptor piece were machined from O1 and fit and finished by hand.  They are then heat treated and completely polished before final assembly (because that's the way it should be).  Yes, the mouth-breather that last worked on the gun left the sear tails in those pretty torch-heating colors.

The sears, blanked out

 Creating the raised bearing pads on the outboard sides

 All filed up and ready for initial fitting

After fitting the sear noses to their respective hammers (with sufficient overdraw), it is readily evident how much the original sears were shortened.  "Aw hell, that ain't much", says our halfwitted, mouth-breathing gun-plumber, obviously unencumbered by any understanding of geometry.

 Next is the intercepting piece.  This is the part that is attached to the rear of the lifting plate and stops against the anvil during the first shot, limiting the lifting plate's movement before the shift.  It's a small part but not particularly simple and has multiple fitting points.  Drilling the pivot pin hole is a non-event but the hole for the upper leg of the tension spring is a bit of a different story, due to its being 0.9mm in diameter.  That hole was drilled in a small precision drill press of my own design and manufacture (I actually made it for watchmaking work).

The breechscrew is the last part that needed to be made.  It is made of 1018 and case-hardened after making, fitting, indexing and engraving.  Notice that the frame must be stripped bare in order to gain unencumbered access to the top strap.